Bird Photo tour February 2025 (Yimming Zou)

Participants (UK): Yimming Zou and Mier Chen

Tour Leader: Carlos Mario Aranzazu 

Tour Organizer & Logistics: Julio Delgado

February 16 - Airport Pickup and Transfer to Finca La Florida

Today we had the pleasure of welcoming Yimming and Mier, a lovely couple originally from China who are now UK citizens living in Manchester. After contacting us and booking the tour approximately 8 months in advance, we finally met them at Cali Airport to begin this wonderful photographic adventure.

They arrived on a Copa Airlines flight at 2:30 PM. After a warm welcome, we began our journey to Finca La Florida. Along the way, we shared information about the Cauca River Valley and its Tropical dry forest. As we passed through northern Cali, we told them about the city's cheerful and friendly people, and the importance of salsa music and dance in the local culture.

As we ascended the Western Andes, they mentioned they had been traveling for 15 days in Costa Rica and 13 days in Ecuador prior to arriving in Colombia. They admitted feeling quite exhausted from their time in Ecuador. Upon arrival at the finca, Javier and Su (his wife) gave us a warm welcome. Mier was feeling a bit dizzy, and with their accumulated fatigue, they decided to rest until dinner. After enjoying a delicious meal prepared by Su, we all retired for the night.

February 17 - La Florida

Nestled in the heart of the San Antonio Cloud Forest, at an altitude of 1,800 meters in the Western Andes near Cali, lies Finca La Florida—a true paradise for birdwatchers. Our adventure began at dawn, as we rose at 6:00 AM and were ready by 6:30 AM at the famous Moth Station.

This remarkable spot, enhanced by the expert bird baiting of Nestor, provided us with incredible photographic opportunities. Among the highlights were the Streak-capped Treehunter, the migratory Canada Warbler and Acadian Flycatcher, as well as the Golden-crowned Flycatcher and Russet-crowned Warbler.

Streak-capped Treehunter

Russet-crowned Warbler

After a well-earned breakfast break, we moved on to the tanager feeding station. Here, our cameras worked tirelessly to capture the dazzling array of colors set against perfect perches and backgrounds. The show-stealers included the endemic Multicolored Tanager, along with Saffron-crowned Tanager, Golden Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Red-headed Barbet, Palm Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Flame-rumped Tanager, and the vibrant Green Honeycreeper. The sheer brilliance of these birds left us and our guests in absolute awe.

Endemic Multicolored Tanager

Red-headed Barbet

Multicolored Tanager

By 10:30 AM, we arrived at the hummingbird feeders, where our guests were mesmerized by these tiny, iridescent jewels of the forest. Carlos, the tour leader, and I (Julio Delgado) guided them in capturing the perfect shot—pointing out the gleaming pink throat of the Fawn-breasted Brilliant, the violet side patches of the Brown Violetear, and the precise moment to photograph the Booted Racket-tail as it spread its tail. Among the standout species we captured were the Tawny-bellied Hermit, Long-tailed Sylph, Bronzy Inca, Western Emerald, Purple-throated Woodstar, Andean Emerald, and Steely-vented Hummingbird.

Booted Raquet-Tail

Brown Violetear

Brown Violetear

near endemic Purple-throated Woodstar

As we immersed ourselves in the hummingbird spectacle, a majestic Ornate Hawk-Eagle suddenly appeared. Though it perched high, making photography challenging due to the bright background, we managed to take some shots of this impressive raptor.

After a well-deserved lunch, we set out for the Little Tinamou Station in the afternoon. As we waited for the elusive tinamous, a White-throated Quail-Dove and a Chestnut-capped Brushfinch made a surprise appearance, offering excellent photographic opportunities.

White-throated Quail-Dove

After waiting patiently for a reasonable amount of time, Carlos,Nestor and I concluded that the Tinamous would not make an appearance today. We decided to dedicate more time at the banana feeders instead.                                                                                             

Sickle-winged Guan

Endemic Multicolored Tanager

Golden-naped Tanager & Golden Tanager

The extra time spent with these dazzling birds proved worthwhile, as everyone captured magnificent shots of species like: Crimson-rumped Toucanet, endemic Colombian Chachalaca and Sickle-winged Guan. They provided excellent photographic opportunities that rounded out our wonderful day of bird photography at La Florida.

February 18 - Doña Dora's Place

Perched at about 1,300 meters in the mid-slopes of the Western Andes, descending toward the Pacific Ocean, El Descanso is home to Doña Dora and her wonderful family. Their dedication to bird tourism and conservation has improved their quality of life while making this one of the most famous birding destinations in Valle del Cauca and all of Colombia.

Doña Dora and her son, Elber, greeted us warmly and offered us our first coffee of the morning. The site wasted no time in delivering stunning photographic opportunities, beginning with one of its true rockstars—the Toucan Barbet. We were even lucky enough to capture a video of a pair engaging in their unique vocal duet, a thrilling moment for any photographer

Toucan Barbet

We spent the morning focused on the feeders in the backyard garden, photographing endemic species from the Chocó bioregion. The striking emerald-green of the Glistening-green Tanager, the fiery throat of the Rufous-throated Tanager, and the elegant gold and silver hues of the Silver-throated Tanager made for breathtaking portraits. Other highlights included the White-lined Tanager, Tricolor Brushfinch, Black-headed Brushfinch, and the distinctive Chestnut-headed Oropendola.

Glistening-green Tanager

Chestnut-headed Oropendola

We were truly fortunate to have Nestor accompany us on our adventure today. Like a master artist preparing his canvas, Nestor supported us with magnificent ideas to capture truly astonishing photographs of our feathered subjects.

Male Green Honeycreeper

The art of properly placing food so it remains invisible in photos is indeed a delicate craft—one that Nestor has clearly mastered. In a stroke of creative genius, he brought a large heart-shaped leaf and worked his magic, strategically positioning banana pieces to create a natural frame. This clever setup allowed us to capture spectacular images of birds appearing to emerge from the center of the leaf's verdant heart.

Rufous Throated Tanager

The Tanagers, with their their vibrant plumage contrasting beautifully against the green heart-shaped backdrop. Each photograph captured not just the birds, but a moment of natural perfection—the curved lines of the leaf leading the eye directly to our subjects in a harmony of form and color. The results were nothing short of spectacular—images that went beyond mere documentation to become true artistic expressions of these avian wonders in their natural setting.

Glistenning-green Tanager

Sliver-throated Tanager

Doña Dora outdid herself at lunchtime. Yiming and Mier enjoyed fresh trout, while Carlos and I indulged in a delicious pork dish.

In the afternoon, we shifted our focus to the hummingbird feeders, where a whole new palette of colors awaited. The Empress Brilliant displayed its regal elegance, the Velvet-purple Coronet shimmered with deep iridescence, and the Rufous-gaped Hillstar added a rare sighting to our day. The Crowned Woodnymph, Andean Emerald, White-necked Jacobin, and White-whiskered Hermit all provided dazzling photographic opportunities, each with their own distinctive flashes of iridescence. 

Empress Brilliant

As the day wound down, we returned to Finca La Florida. During dinner, we enjoyed a delightful conversation with Yiming and Mier about Colombian culture—its warmth, humor, and resilience. I shared how our ability to laugh and joke through hardship has helped us endure life’s challenges. They, in turn, proved to be incredibly observant and respectful, noticing even the smallest cultural nuances.

After this pleasant evening, we retired for the night, reflecting on yet another extraordinary day of birding and photography in Colombia.

February 19 - San Felipe & Bosque de Niebla

We began our day early, leaving La Florida to explore another excellent bird photography location nearby. By 7 AM, we had arrived at San Felipe, where we were greeted by Sergio, the local bird feeder specialist. Despite his youth, Sergio demonstrates remarkable skill in attracting birds and constructing thoughtfully designed feeding stations.

Endemic Chestnut Woodquail

Our experience began with a somewhat lengthy walk to reach the feeding areas set up for Chestnut Woodquails and Tinamous. Patience was rewarded after about 10 minutes when a family of Chestnut Woodquails emerged from the understory. These secretive ground-dwellers, with their rich chestnut plumage accented by black markings, provided excellent photographic opportunities as they cautiously approached the feeding area.

After waiting approximately half an hour, we concluded that the Tinamous would once again remain elusive, similar to our experience at La Florida. Undeterred, we proceeded uphill to the banana feeding stations that Sergio had expertly constructed. These well-designed platforms attract a variety of tanagers and other fruit-eating birds, providing excellent settings for photography against natural backdrops.

Golden-naped Tanager

Carlos offered some gentle suggestions to Sergio about how to improve the perches even further, and the young man received this guidance with genuine enthusiasm. Though San Felipe shares the same ecosystem as La Florida, we made the most of our day by capturing different lighting conditions, perches, and backgrounds—variety that brings life and uniqueness to a photographer's portfolio.

Saffron-crowned Tanager

Soon, the avian performers began to arrive on nature's stage, and Mier and Yimming's cameras sprang to life, capturing frame after frame of these winged wonders. The Black-capped Tanager posed gracefully, its velvet-black head contrasting dramatically with its striking turquoise body—a photographer's dream for color composition. The endemic Scrub Tanager showed off its subtle but elegant combination of blue-gray and orange plumage, while the Saffron-crowned Tanager dazzled with its brilliant turqoise blue -green body topped by a golden-yellow crown that seems to glow in certain angles of light.

Black-capped Tanager

Near Endemic Scrub Tanager

The female Flame-rumped Tanager lived up to its name, appearing as though carrying a little sunset on its lower back, the fiery  yellow / orange patch flaring brilliantly against its otherwise dark brown plumage.

Female Flame-rumped Tanager

The endemic Colombian Chachalaca pay us a visit, and the Andean Motmot, perhaps the most regal visitor of the morning, displayed its long racquet-shaped tail feathers and rainbow palette of blues, greens, and rusty-orange that seems almost too extravagant for a single bird.

Andean Motmot

After a magnificent morning at San Felipe, we bid farewell to Sergio and set off for our next destination: Bosque de Niebla (Cloud Forest). Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Luis, the owner, whose family manages this wonderful photography site with obvious passion and care.

Following a delicious bowl of ajiaco—a traditional Colombian chicken soup rich with potatoes and herbs—we turned our lenses toward the hummingbirds. 

Booted Raquet-Tail

 

Fawn-breasted Brilliant

As the day drew to a close, we reluctantly packed our gear and began the hour-long journey back to Cali. After checking into Hotel Ibis and enjoying a satisfying dinner, we retired to our rooms for some well-earned rest. Tomorrow would begin early—another day of photographic adventures awaiting us in this bird-rich region of Colombia.

 

February 20 - Sonso Lagoo & Grape Park

The stars still scattered across the sky as we departed our hotel at the remarkably early hour of 4:00 AM, packed breakfast boxes in hand, heading northward toward Laguna de Sonso. As our vehicle quietly sliced through the pre-dawn darkness, anticipation built for the day of "incidental (opportunistic) photography" ahead—that magical practice of capturing birds in their natural behaviors rather than at feeding stations.

After a two-hour journey punctuated by one brief stop, we arrived at our destination just as the eastern horizon began to hint at daybreak. We savored our traveling breakfasts while waiting for the golden morning light that photographers prize above all others—that gentle illumination that transforms ordinary scenes into extraordinary images.

Endemic Grayish Piculet

Laguna de Sonso reveals itself as a flooded oxbow of the Cauca River (Colombia's third-largest waterway), a precious remnant of tropical dry forest ecosystem increasingly threatened by encroaching sugarcane plantations. This endangered habitat makes each bird sighting here all the more precious—living jewels in a dwindling sanctuary.

Maicol, our knowledgeable local guide, soon joined us to lead our exploration of the reserve's trails. First came the almost mythical encounter with several Common Potoos—these master illusionists with their bark-like plumage perched motionless on broken stumps, their enormous eyes closed to slits as they masqueraded as mere extensions of their perches. Nearby, a Common Nighthawk demonstrated its own version of camouflage perfection, its cryptic plumage a textured canvas of browns and grays that dissolve into the surrounding environment—challenging even the sharpest photographer's eye to distinguish bird from branch.

 

Juvenile Common Potoo

The morning's true prize emerged soon after: a pair of the endemic Grayish Piculets. These tiny woodpeckers, no larger than a sparrow, moved with frenetic energy as they probed for insects, their diminutive size and quick movements testing both our patience and focusing skills. Their subtle gray plumage accented with delicate spots creates a surprisingly photogenic subject against the right background.

The open grasslands offered the Red-breasted Meadowlark, a stunning subject with its jet-black plumage dramatically offset by a brilliant scarlet breast shield—a perfect specimen for practicing exposure compensation to balance those challenging light and dark areas in a single frame.

Red-breasted Meadowlark

Here, Mier and Yimming's impressive 800mm lenses proved invaluable as we encountered a parade of photogenic species. The Neotropic Cormorant with its sinuous neck and emerald-green eyes; the striking Oriole Blackbird whose velvet-black plumage seems to absorb light itself; the introduced Tricolored Munia with its intricate patterning of chocolate and cream; the precisely-named Streaked Flycatcher showing its bold pattern even at distance.

Neotropic Cormorant

The elegant Snail Kite demonstrated its specialized hunting behavior, scanning for apple snails with laser focus. The secretive Jet Antbird provided fleeting glimpses of its coal-black plumage accented by startling white wing patches. The endearing Spectacled Parrotlet—tiny emeralds with personality—moved in chattering groups. The imposing Yellow-headed Caracara surveyed its domain from prominent perches, while the magnificent Lineated Woodpecker, with its crimson crest and zebra-striped face, hammered rhythmically on distant trees, and off course the southern lapwings with theyr secret weapon – sharp, bony spurs on the bird’s “wrists.”

Southern Lapwing

After enjoying lunch at the reserve, we journeyed onward to Parque de La Uva (Grape Park) —a working vineyard owned by the Grajales family. Hidden at the back of this vineyard lies a special patch of Aloe plants that attracts a particularly elusive hummingbird species. The tiny jewel made approximately four brief appearances, each visit so fleeting that both Carlos and I forsook our own photography to help Mier and Yimming spot the rapidly moving target. Despite their preparedness, the desired portrait remained elusive—their target repeatedly chased away by the territorial Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds that dominated the area.

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

Yellow Oriole

As the sun climbed higher and the heat intensified, we eventually conceded temporary defeat to this winged sprite. Retreating to the park reception area, we refreshed ourselves with delicious grape slushies before continuing our northward journey toward the day's final destination: Sutú Reserve in Mistrató, where new avian treasures awaited our lenses.

Our arrival at Reserva Sutú came a bit later than planned, and we found ourselves momentarily lost just as we neared our destination. Fortunately, helpful locals provided excellent directions, guiding us to this hidden gem nestled in the lush Colombian landscape. Weary from our long journey, we gratefully enjoyed dinner before retreating to our rooms for a well-deserved rest.

February 21 - Reserva Sutú

 

Cameras ready by 7 AM, we watched as Carlos collaborated with Christian—the passionate owner of both the reserve and the lodge—to arrange perfect natural perches for our feathered subjects. The morning light filtered through the canopy as we positioned ourselves with anticipation, our lenses focused on a fruit-laden Ficus tree that promised to attract one of our most desired subjects.

True to our hopes, the Orange-breasted Fruiteater made its appearance—a living emerald with a sunset splashed across its chest. This stunning cotinga offers photographers a perfect color contrast study: its deep grass-green upperparts setting off the vibrant orange breast patch like a jewel against velvet. When the light catches it just right, few birds offer such a perfect balance of complementary colors in a single frame.

Flame-rumped Tanager

The ethereal calls of a Scaled Fruiteater echoed through the forest, tempting us to try our luck with a careful playback. Our patience was rewarded when this more elusive cotinga descended to trees near the feeding stations. Despite our best efforts to position Yiming and Mier for the perfect shot, this master of forest shadows proved too quick and cautious for their cameras. Only Carlos managed to capture its image—a testament to both his experience and the challenging nature of this spectacular bird with its scalloped plumage that resembles delicate green scales overlaid with yellow.

The true highlight awaited us next as we ventured to a small clearing in the forest—a lek site for the spectacular and truly iconic Club-winged Manakin. This diminutive performer, dressed in its formal tuxedo of black and white with a striking red cap, is renowned not just for its visual display but for its extraordinary acoustic talents. As we watched in wonder, the male manakin lifted its wings above its back, revealing specialized feathers that it vibrated at incredible speed—creating a mechanical sound reminiscent of a printer's whir or a car in reverse. This remarkable evolutionary adaptation, where modified wing bones actually rub together to create sound rather than using the syrinx as other birds do, makes capturing both images and video of this species particularly rewarding for nature photographers.

Club-winged Manakin

After enjoying lunch at the reserve, we devoted our afternoon to the flying jewels of the forest—the hummingbirds. The Purple-bibbed Whitetip dazzled with its gorget that flashes between deep purple and black depending on the light angle. The Violet-tailed Sylph, perhaps the most elegant of all, swept through the air with its extraordinarily long, iridescent tail feathers trailing behind like flowing ribbons of liquid amethyst. The Andean Emerald lived up to its name with plumage that seems carved from the precious stone itself.

 

Andean Emerald

Velvet-purple Coronet

Purple-bibbed Whitetip

Violet-tailed Sylph

Juvenile Empress Brilliant

That evening's dinner was filled with animated conversation as we relived the spectacular performance the Club-winged Manakin had gifted us in the morning. Under the soft glow of the lodge lights, with the night chorus of the forest providing background accompaniment, we agreed that we had experienced something truly extraordinary—a moment when nature's wonder transcends mere observation to become an unforgettable memory etched in both our minds and our memory cards.

February 22 - Reserva Sutú

After a hearty breakfast that fueled our anticipation, we set off for Birdshome, a specially designed bird photography hotspot nestled in the verdant hills, owned by Arnulfo Sanchez, a very important person in the Birding community from Risaralda Province. He has commited to spread birding in to this and the next generations. Our morning's mission was focused on capturing images of the endemic Black-and-gold Tanager, a treasure of Colombia's western slopes and a prize for any bird photographer's portfolio.

Endemic Black-and-gold Tanager

The Black-and-gold Tanager is truly a photographer's dream subject. Its striking plumage—a dramatic contrast of deepest black against brilliant golden-yellow—creates natural composition that nearly frames itself. When perched against the green backdrop of distant cloud forest foliage, this living jewel seems to glow from within, challenging photographers to balance exposure perfectly to capture both the luminous yellow and the light-absorbing black in a single frame. Unlike many tanagers that move restlessly through the canopy, this species often perches momentarily in the open, offering precious seconds for composition—a gift not all forest birds provide.

Endemic Black-and-gold Tanager

The Blue-winged Mountain Tanager also graced our lenses with its appearance, while the exquisite Velvet-purple Coronet hummingbird dazzled us with iridescence that shifts between royal purple and midnight blue depending on the angle of light—a phenomenon photographers call "structural color" that presents both challenges and magical opportunities for those patient enough to wait for the perfect flash of brilliance, and also the moment that shows the contrasting orange colors on the under wings. The tiny Purple-throated Woodstar—barely larger than a bumblebee—demonstrated remarkable aerobatics, hovering with precision despite its diminutive size.

Blue-winged Mountain Tanager

Velvet-purple Coronet

Purple-throated Woodstar

Our visit coincided with the Mistrató Bird Festival. Carlos and I learned that we would be sharing the feeding stations with children from the local community who were participating in the festival activities. What might have been an inconvenience in other circumstances instead transformed into one of the trip's most meaningful moments.

When the children arrived, their faces lit up with wonder upon discovering that visitors had traveled all the way from England to see the birds they encountered in their everyday lives. For these budding local birders, meeting Mier and Yimming—who showed extraordinary kindness and patience with their young companions—became an inspirational encounter that transcended language barriers. Witnessing people journey across continents to admire their natural heritage instilled a palpable sense of pride in these children, perhaps planting seeds for future conservation leaders.

Carlos and I seized this unexpected opportunity to share our experience as guides, demonstrating basic camera operations and explaining how these beautiful birds had created livelihoods that connected their remote community to the wider world. The children's enthusiasm was infectious, their questions insightful, reminding us that sometimes the most valuable part of a bird photography expedition happens beyond the viewfinder.

After this heartwarming cultural exchange, we returned to Reserva Sutú for lunch before beginning our journey toward Manizales. A couple of hours later, winding through mountain roads with scenery that demanded photographs of its own, we arrived at our next photographic destination: the spectacular Hacienda el Bosque.

This remarkable property sits along the road to Los Nevados National Park at an impressive elevation of 3,000 meters. Though primarily a cattle ranch, the visionary owners have preserved a crucial forest corridor stretching from the high-altitude páramo ecosystem at 4,000 meters down to the hacienda itself—a conservation commitment that ensures the continued presence of the magnificent birds we had come to photograph.

As evening settled over the mountains, we prepared our equipment for the next day's adventures, knowing that the high-altitude specialties awaiting us would present new photographic challenges and opportunities in the thin, crystal-clear air of the Andes.

February 23 - Hacienda el Bosque

The culinary delights of Hacienda el Bosque proved to be as exceptional as its avian treasures. After savoring a sumptuous breakfast of eggs, prosciutto, and spectacularly rich Colombian coffee, we set out with eager anticipation toward our first target of the day—the feeding station of "Juli," the beautiful and secretive Ecuadorian Antpitta.

Ecuadorian Antpitta

While awaiting this elusive performer's appearance, we were treated to unexpected visits from the typically difficult-to-see White-browed Spinetail and "Arturo," the charismatic Gray-browed Brushfinch. Each presented perfect poses, as if understanding our photographic intentions.

White-browed Spinetail

Gray-browed Brushfinch

Our next destination held perhaps the day's most anticipated encounter—the feeding station of superstar "Lunita," the Crescent-faced Antpitta. In my estimation, this is the most beautiful member of the antpitta family, a ground-dwelling jewel of the high Andes that few birders ever glimpse in the wild. After a brief but suspense-filled wait, Lunita made her appearance, emerging from the shadows like a woodland spirit

.

Crescent-faced Antpitta

The Crescent-faced Antpitta presents a photographer's dream subject when it does appear. Its plumage—a rich chestnut body adorned with a striking white facial crescent and delicate scaling on its breast—offers remarkable texture and detail. Unlike many forest birds, antpittas move with deliberate, almost theatrical hops that allow for anticipating the perfect moment to capture their alert, expressive posture. The contrast between their round bodies and enormous eyes creates portraits of unusual character, while their habit of freezing momentarily between movements provides precious seconds for achieving perfect focus in challenging forest light.

Christian, the skilled bird feeder specialist at Hacienda el Bosque, has clearly perfected his craft—the feeding stations functioning with remarkable efficiency to attract these normally shy forest dwellers. Throughout the morning, we also photographed other fascinating species, including the Slaty Brushfinch and the energetic Mountain Wren. A pair of Barred Fruiteaters approached tantalizingly close but remained partially obscured among branches, denying us the clear shots we hoped for.

Mountain Wren

Masked Flowerpiercer

Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant

The finale of our morning session brought us to the station frequented by Gray-breasted Mountain Toucans—another signature species of Hacienda el Bosque. These extraordinary birds, with their painted-looking bills and subtle blue-gray breasts accented by chestnut undertail coverts, moved through the trees with surprising grace for such seemingly top-heavy creatures. We also observed and photographed the turkey-like Andean Guan and the elegant White-throated Quail-Doves before taking a well-deserved break for lunch.

Gray-breasted Mountain Toucan

Andean Guan

The afternoon unveiled the true jewels of the high Andean forest—the remarkable mountain hummingbirds that have evolved specialized adaptations for this rarefied environment. Among the standouts was the astonishing Sword-billed Hummingbird, nature's extraordinary solution to reaching deep into passion flowers, its bill longer than its entire body—a challenge for photographers to capture in a single frame while maintaining focus throughout its remarkable length.

Sword-billed Hummingbird

The unique Shining Sunbeam presented a special photographic challenge—an adult male must be found, and then one must patiently wait for it to turn just right, revealing the "brilliant metallic" rainbow feathers on its back that give the species its evocative name—a test of timing and patience that rewards with images of incomparable brilliance when successful.

Shining Sunbeam

Other aerial gems included the Tourmaline Sunangel with its violet-blue gorget that shifts dramatically with angle of light, the impressive Buff-winged Starfrontlet whose large size and bold colors make it a commanding presence at the feeders, and the endearing Sparkling Violetear, named for the distinctive violet ear patch that flashes when it´s claiming a flower for itself.

Tourmaline Sunangel

Sparkling Violetear

As the afternoon light began to soften around 4 PM, we reluctantly departed this high-elevation paradise, setting course for our next destination—Hotel Termales del Ruiz—where new avian wonders and steaming thermal pools awaited our arrival.

 

February 24 - Nevados National Park 

The morning dawned with a singular mission in our hearts: to seek out the most precious and elusive jewel of our entire tour—the endemic Buffy Helmetcrest. Capturing quality photographs of this hummingbird presents a formidable challenge, not only because of its vulnerable conservation status due to habitat loss, but also because of the ever-changing and difficult lighting conditions in the páramo ecosystem. Drizzle, fog, wind—these are but a few of the obstacles we would need to overcome in our quest.

Buffy Helmetcrest

The Brisas visitor center in Los Nevados National Park sits at a breathtaking 4,000 meters above sea level, a harsh and unforgiving landscape for this remarkable hummingbird that must enter torpor each night simply to survive. The Buffy Helmetcrest represents the pinnacle of photographic achievement for many bird photographers, its unique crest and buff-colored plumage demanding technical mastery to capture properly. When the light strikes just right, the male's elongated buff / bronze crest feathers create an almost medieval knight-like appearance—a living helmet adorned with iridescent armor that shifts from emerald to violet, depending on angle. This spectacular feature, combined with its habit of hovering among the enormous Frailejón plants (their gray-green rosettes creating perfect natural frames), produces images of otherworldly beauty that seem to belong to fantasy rather than reality.

Buffy Helmetcrest

We spent the entire morning searching for opportunities and perches among the Frailejón (Espeletia) and Arnica flowers, enduring the cold and altitude sickness—at one point, Mier needed to rest inside the vehicle. When she felt better, we continued photographing until we finally achieved the satisfying shots we had hoped for.

Buffy Helmetcrest

We descended to the hotel for lunch and a well-deserved break at Hotel Termales del Ruiz. During this respite, Mier and Yiming graciously taught us a few words in Mandarin at our request—I always enjoy learning about the culture and customs of our clients. We mentioned that our afternoon objective would be a "Xīn fēngniǎo" (新蜂鳥)—a "new hummingbird": the spectacular and iconic Rainbow-bearded Thornbill.

Rainbow-bearded Thornbill

Like its morning counterpart, this hummingbird doesn't visit feeders, so we sought out the best locations to photograph it. The most productive spot turned out to be flowering shrubs in the gardens of Hotel Termales del Ruiz, where one individual repeatedly visited. The Rainbow-bearded Thornbill presents a different but equally magnificent photographic subject—its name referring to the extraordinary multicolored beard that seems to contain every hue of the rainbow within its small expanse. When caught in perfect light, this beard dazzles with blues, greens, and reds that appear impossibly vibrant against its otherwise emerald plumage.

Rainbow-bearded Thornbill

With patience and persistence, we positioned ourselves near these flowering shrubs, cameras ready, and were rewarded with excellent photographs that captured the essence of this living gem. The soft afternoon light filtered through the mountain mist created perfect conditions for highlighting the stunning iridescence of its beard without the harsh shadows that can plague midday photography.

Female Collared Inca

As the day drew to a close, we reflected on our good fortune—two of Colombia's most sought-after high-elevation hummingbirds captured in a single day, each representing a triumph over challenging conditions and a testament to the extraordinary biodiversity of the Andean páramo ecosystem.

 

February 25 - Hotel termales del Ruiz 

The morning at Hotel Termales del Ruiz greeted us with promise as we settled in at the lodge's feeding stations after breakfast. These well-positioned feeders sit at the edge of the Elfin Forest—that magical ecosystem where the trees become gnarled and stunted by the harsh Andean elements, creating a fairytale landscape inhabited by some of Colombia's most spectacular birds.

Pale-naped Brushfinch

The Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager proved to be one of the morning's most photogenic visitors. This living jewel of the high Andes presents photographers with a study in contrast that challenges and delights. Its velvet-black head and upperparts absorb light completely, creating a dramatic frame for the explosive scarlet that blazes across its belly like living flame. When photographing this species, one must carefully balance exposure settings to capture both the detail in the light-absorbing black feathers and the vibrant red that can easily become overexposed. When a perfect beam of morning light cuts through the mountain mist to illuminate this tanager's scarlet belly against the  green backdrop of elfin forest foliage, the resulting image appears almost artificially enhanced—nature's perfection requiring no filters.

Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager

We also captured magnificent photos of other stunners of the central Andes: the Lachrymose Mountain Tanager with its distinctive "tear-marked" face pattern, the unassuming yet elegant Pale-naped Brushfinch, and the breathtaking Golden-crowned Tanager whose plumage seems to be painted in watercolor washes of soft blue accented by a brilliant golden crown.

Lachrymose Mountain Tanager

The hummingbird feeders  allowed Yiming and Mier to photograph the impressive Great Sapphirewing—one of the world's largest hummingbirds whose size creates a distinctly different photographic opportunity compared to its tiny relatives. Also the robust Buff-winged Starfrontlet, and the Gorgeous Sparkling Violetear.

Sparkling Violetear

Tourmaline Sunangel

In the afternoon, we descended from the mountains to Manizales, checking into the magnificent Recinto del Pensamiento hotel and convention center. While Mier and Yimming settled in, Carlos and I set out to explore the grounds and stumbled upon an unexpected treasure—an orchid exhibition featuring hundreds of different species. These botanical masterpieces, with their intricate patterns and extraordinary diversity, reminded us that sometimes nature's beauty extends beyond feathers and flight.

We hurried back to invite Mier and Yimming to witness this floral spectacle. Their fascination matched our own as we wandered among these botanical jewels, their cameras now focused on stationary but equally beautiful subjects—a perfect complement to our avian adventures. The orchids, many endemic to Colombia just like many of the birds we'd photographed, showcased the country's remarkable biodiversity in yet another dimension.

As the day came to a close, we enjoyed a delicious dinner together, reflecting on the day's photographic bounty—from the boldly patterned mountain tanagers of the morning to the delicate orchid blooms of the afternoon—before retiring to our rooms to rest and prepare for tomorrow's explorations.

 

February 26 - Rio Blanco

The morning sun had barely peeked over the mountains when our adventure began at Rio Blanco Reserve, a protected high Andean forest owned by Manizales' Water Company. This verdant sanctuary not only safeguards the city's water supply but harbors an astonishing array of biodiversity that would soon reveal itself to our eager eyes and camera lenses.

Green-and-Black Fruiteater

Carlos Mario's family welcomed us with open arms. Doña Claudia treated us to a delicious breakfast that warmed our bodies and spirits for the day ahead. With full stomachs and mounting excitement, we followed Mateo, Carlos's son, to our first station of the day – the feeding area for the Chestnut-crowned Antpitta and the Green-and-Black Fruiteater.

Chestnut-crowned Antpitta

The Chestnut-crowned Antpitta put on an absolutely spectacular show! These normally shy forest-floor dwellers have developed a remarkable trust with Carlos Mario and Mateo through their gentle feeding program. Photographers, imagine this: a plump, round bird with stubby tail and long legs, its rich chestnut crown contrasting beautifully with its white belly and brown back, hopping boldly into open spaces! These birds typically hide in the dense undergrowth, making them notoriously difficult to photograph in the wild. Yet here at Rio Blanco, they approach with confidence, offering unparalleled opportunities to capture their inquisitive expressions and characteristic bobbing movements. 

Slate-crowned Antpitta

Later, we visited the station of the Slate-crowned Antpitta. Our patience was tested as we waited, but oh, how richly we were rewarded! When this elusive beauty finally appeared, it provided magnificent photographic opportunities. The Slate-crowned Antpitta, with its distinctive slate-gray head and warm brown body, moves with a unique bouncing gait that challenges photographers to perfect their timing. The contrast between its dark crown and pale throat creates striking imagery when captured from the right angle. Pro tip for photographers: be ready with a fast shutter speed to freeze those quick hopping motions while maintaining enough depth of field to keep the entire bird in focus!

Speckled Hummingbird

The morning culminated with an enchanting parade of hummingbirds: Sparkling Violetear, Buff-tailed Coronet, Speckled Hummingbird, Tourmaline Sunangel, Chocó Daggerbill, and Collared Inca. Each species flashed and glittered in the mountain light, their iridescent feathers transforming with every movement.

Sparkling Violetear

Chocó Daggerbill

After another delightful lunch prepared by Doña Claudia, we headed to the station of the endemic Brown-banded Antpitta. The birds today were exceptionally cooperative – a testament to the excellent work Carlos and Mateo have done in creating this harmonious relationship between humans and birds.

Endemic Brown-banded Antpitta

Eared Dove

Slaty Brushfinch

We bid farewell to Rio Blanco with photographs of the Southern Emerald Toucanet, its emerald plumage and distinctive bill creating the perfect final memory of our day. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed dinner before retiring for the night, our cameras full of treasures and our hearts full of wonder at the magical world of Andean birds.

Southern Emerald Toucanet

Rio Blanco prooved to be a hidden gem  that offers bird photographers something truly special, intimate encounters with typically shy forest species in their natural habitat, all while supporting conservation efforts that protect these creatures and their forest home for generations to come.

 

February 27 - Glamping Color de mis Reves

The day promised excitement from the very beginning. It was to be a duel of titans – our Carlos Mario was about to meet the feeder specialist at the Glamping site, who, by delightful coincidence, was also named Carlos Mario. In the world of bird photography, the feeder specialist holds a position of utmost importance. They are the patient souls who train hummingbirds to visit strategically placed flowers on clamps, and who encourage antpittas, tanagers, toucans, and other birds to arrive for meals at specific times – creating those magical moments that photographers dream of capturing.

From the moment they met, the two Carlos connected wonderfully, and the skillful work of the Glamping's Carlos immediately became evident. Our morning began with a breathtaking sighting – a beautiful pair of Masked Trogons who graciously posed for an extended period.

Male Masked Trogon

The Masked Trogons were absolutely mesmerizing! These jewels of the forest offered photographers a perfect subject with their striking color contrast – the male's brilliant red underparts set against deep metallic green upperparts. What makes these birds particularly special for photographers is their habit of sitting perfectly still for long periods, allowing for composition adjustments and perfect exposure settings. Their contemplative posture, often perched horizontally on a branch, creates a perfect profile shot opportunity. The challenge – and the reward – comes in capturing the subtle interplay of light on their iridescent feathers, which can transform from jade green to deep blue depending on the angle of light. When they turn their heads slightly, revealing those piercing eyes surrounded by the characteristic "mask," you know you've captured something truly special.

Female Masked Trogon

As the morning unfolded, we were treated to visits from the fantastic Black-collared Jay and the handsome Crimson-backed Woodpecker. After breakfast, we moved to the Bicolored Antpitta station. After some waiting, the antpitta arrived, but it cleverly seized a moment of inattention from our feeder specialist to snatch one of the larger worms and disappeared with its prize! With its belly full, it didn't return – this round clearly went to the antpitta. But as every wildlife photographer knows, these are the delightful occupational hazards of bird photography!

Crimson-backed Woodpecker

Black-collared Jay

Blue-capped Tanager

Hooded Mountain Tanager

Crimson-backed Woodpecker

We concluded our morning with spectacular photographs of hummingbirds: the Long-tailed Sylph, Collared Inca, Shining Sunbeam, Tourmaline Sunangel,and White-bellied Woodstar. The Long-tailed Sylph deserves special mention – this extraordinary hummingbird presents a unique challenge and opportunity for photographers. With its iridescent green body and those remarkably long, elegant tail feathers that can extend up to six inches on the males, capturing this bird in flight requires perfect timing and technique. The tail streamers create a mesmerizing blue-green trail as they hover, but photographing them requires fast shutter speeds coupled with enough light to illuminate their jewel-like colors. When successfully captured, these images reveal a creature that seems almost mythical – the elongated tail feathers flowing like azure ribbons behind the compact, shimmering body. 

Long-tailed Sylph

Bronzy Inca

White-bellied Woodstar

Long-tailed Sylph

After a morning filled with vibrant sightings and the gentle dance between birds and photographers, we savored a delicious lunch that replenished our energy for the journey ahead. With memory cards full of treasures and hearts full of the day's experiences, we bid farewell to our birding paradise and set course back to Valle del Cauca.

Buff-tailed Coronet

Buff-tailed Coronet

Tourmaline Sunangel

As dusk approached, we arrived at our destination for the night – the beautiful Ecohotel El Diamante in Buga. This nice Hotel, nestled in the Valle del Cauca region welcomed us with open arms. The property, a harmonious blend of comfort and natural beauty, seemed to whisper promises of new avian encounters come morning.

Collared Inca

Ecohotel El Diamante is not just a place to rest between birding expeditions – it is itself a sanctuary for birdlife. The hotel grounds, with their thoughtfully maintained gardens and native vegetation, attract a variety of birds that often surprise guests during early morning coffee on the veranda or evening strolls along the peaceful pathways.

The dance between the birds, the two Carlos, and our camera lenses created a day of magic that any bird photographer would treasure. Even with the small "defeat" at the Bicolored Antpitta station, the day yielded images that would be cherished long after our memory cards were downloaded and our gear packed away – a testament to the patience of the feeder specialists and the wonders of these remarkable birds.

 

February 28 - Perfect Finale: El Diamante

We rested wonderfully at Ecohotel El Diamante, nestled at approximately 1,300 meters elevation at the foothills of the Central Andes in Valle province. After a delicious breakfast featuring fresh buffalo cheese produced right at El Diamante, we set off with Maicol, the lodge's expert bird feeder, to the Crested Bobwhite station.

Crested Bobwhite

After just a few minutes of quiet anticipation, "Manchas," the resident Crested Bobwhite, made his appearance. This charismatic ground bird is a photographer's delight for reasons that transcend mere colorful plumage.  The species presents a perfect study in subtle textures—its intricately patterned feathers featuring delicate barring, stippling, and vermiculation that rewards close inspection. The bobwhite's most striking feature—its tufted crest that rises like a jaunty exclamation point—creates wonderful opportunities for character studies, especially when captured in profile against a smooth, uncluttered background.

Crested Bobwhite

"Manchas" treated us to a magnificent performance, joined by Ruddy Ground Doves with their soft pink-cinnamon plumage and the vibrant yellow Saffron Finches that added splashes of sunshine to our final morning's photography.

Ruddy Ground Dove

We then spent time at the banana feeders and hummingbird stations, where we had the good fortune to photograph a colorful array of species: the stocky Thick-billed Euphonia with its contrasting yellow and steel-blue plumage, the aptly named Crimson-backed Tanager whose scarlet back seems to glow from within, the White-vented Plumeleteer with its glittering green gorget, the elegant Stripe-throated Hermit with its gracefully curved bill, and the White-necked Jacobin, whose blue-hooded head and white collar create one of the most distinctive hummingbird profiles in the Neotropics.

Red-crowned Woodpecker

Thick-billed Euphonia

After this final photographic feast, we reluctantly packed our bags for the one-hour journey to Cali airport. There, we said our goodbyes to this lovely couple who had captured our hearts during our time together. Mier, always cheerful, playful, and perhaps the most affectionate person we've ever met, had earned our respectful yet endearing nickname of "Mama Mier." Yimming, equally respectful and generous, expressed his gratitude not only in words but with a thoughtful tip. His consistently positive attitude and willingness to help—including once saving my day by lending me a camera battery—exemplified the perfect traveling companion.

Stripe-throated Hermit

As we left them at the airport, we extended an open invitation for their return to Colombia for another tour with us someday. Though our lenses were now capped and our memory cards full of images, the memories of shared discoveries, patient waits rewarded by avian appearances, and laughter across language barriers would remain vivid long after this photographic adventure had ended.

Sometimes in our profession as bird photography guides, we not only introduce visitors to Colombia's extraordinary birds but also forge human connections that remind us why we chose this path—to share the wonder of our natural world with others who come to appreciate it just as deeply.