By Julio Delgado · Lead guide, Piculet Birding
I just wrapped up a tour with Alina and Alexandru, a lovely Romanian couple who live in England. They came to Colombia for work and thought: why not sneak in an early honeymoon while we're here? Best decision ever, if you ask me.
This trip was extra special for me. Alex and Alina were brand-new to birding. Their interest in birds had sparked only a few months earlier, and they didn't even own binoculars yet!
So this was not just a great birding tour. It was also a hands-on birdwatching workshop, and that got me really excited. Back during the pandemic, I put together a free course on YouTube to help people learn how to find and watch birds. Now I got to teach it live, in the cloud forest, with coffee in hand.
If there's one thing I'm good at after 15 years in the field, it's adapting to each guest. Hardcore listers, photographers, total beginners: I love matching their pace and style. Spoiler alert: these two turned out to be naturals.
If you're wondering whether a guided birdwatching tour in Colombia is a good idea for your first birding trip, this trip report is for you. Colombia has more bird species than any other country on Earth, and with feeders, patient guiding and the right itinerary, beginners can see hundreds of species without stress.
Our 9-Day Colombia Birding Itinerary at a Glance
Nine days, two mountain ranges, from Cali to Manizales and back, one very happy couple:
1. Airport pickup in Cali and afternoon at Yotoco Lodge
2. Finca La Florida (Km 18)
3. Doña Dora and Finca Bosque de Niebla
4. Laguna de Sonso and transfer to Filandia
5. Coffee tour and transfer to Manizales
6. Hotel Termales del Ruiz and Los Nevados National Park
7. Hacienda El Bosque
8. Río Blanco and transfer to Buga
9. Ecohotel El Diamante and airport transfer
Day 1: Learning to Use Binoculars at Yotoco Lodge
Alex scored a morning flight into Cali, so we had the whole afternoon to bird at Yotoco Lodge. For this first session I chose the feeders on purpose. It's the perfect classroom for getting comfortable with binoculars.
First, we set the diopter so each pair was focused for their own eyes. Then I shared two tricks I learned when I was starting out:
1. Never take your eyes off the bird. Most of us make the same rookie mistake: we look down for a second to grab the binoculars, and poof, the bird is gone. Keep staring at the bird and bring the binoculars up to your eyes.
2. Use landmarks. Pick something close to the bird, like a flower, a dry leaf or a thick branch. Find that landmark in your binoculars, and the bird will be right there.
These two tips made a huge difference right away.
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
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Beginner tip: if you're learning how to use binoculars for birdwatching, start at feeders. The birds stay close and still for longer, so you can practice without missing the action. |
And then the fun began. In a cozy space of about thirty square meters, sipping delicious Colombian coffee, we saw three Colombian endemics: Colombian Chachalaca, Grayish Piculet and Apical Flycatcher. Not bad for a warm-up!
Endemic Grayish Piculet
By the end of the afternoon we had 38 species. Some favorites:
• Brown Violetear and Bronzy Inca
• The spectacular Green (Inca) Jay
• Barred Becard and Streaked Saltator
• A rainbow of tanagers: Golden-naped, Golden, Scrub, White-lined and Bay-headed
Alex and Alina were blown away. They headed to dinner very happy, having doubled their life list in a single afternoon.
Green (Inca) Jay
Day 2: Hummingbirds and Tanagers at Finca La Florida (Km 18)
The moth station: forest ghosts out in the open
We started the day at the moth station at Finca La Florida. Here you can see birds that are tough to find inside the forest, especially when you're new to binoculars. We enjoyed Grey-breasted Wood-Wren, Northern Chestnut-breasted Wren and Russet-crowned Warbler.
Northern Chestnut-breasted Wren
I told them how lucky we were to see these birds so exposed. The song of the Northern Chestnut-breasted Wren is one of the iconic sounds of the cloud forest. But the bird itself is a real forest ghost: you hear it everywhere and almost never get a good look. Personally, I love its strange, quirky bill.
The banana feeders: pure color
Endemic Multicolored Tanager
Next stop, the banana feeders, where the colors went wild. The undisputed rock star was the Multicolored Tanager, a vulnerable Colombian endemic. The supporting cast was not bad either:
• Saffron-crowned and Flame-rumped Tanagers
• Black-capped and Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers
• Green Honeycreeper
• Slate-throated Redstart (Whitestart)
• Black-winged Saltator
The hummingbird station: the best place to start with Colombian hummingbirds
Then we moved to the hummingbird station and saw an almost indecent 15 species of hummingbirds. Highlights included White-booted Racket-tail, Long-tailed Sylph, Purple-throated Woodstar, Greenish Puffleg, Black-throated Mango and Tawny-bellied Hermit.
Long-tailed Sylph
The afternoon: masters of hide-and-seek
The afternoon belonged to the cryptic birds: Chestnut Wood-Quail (a Colombian endemic), Little Tinamou, White-throated Quail-Dove and Chestnut-capped Brushfinch.
Endemic Chestnut Wood-Quail
I explained how hard the first two are to see in the forest. Ground birds like the wood-quail and the tinamou simply melt into the bushes. You might catch one crossing a trail, but usually the first person in line gets a quick glimpse and everyone else misses it.
Little Tinamou
Before the wood-quails got used to feeders, I once waited almost an hour, calling a family of them with playback. All that, just to watch them sprint across a dirt road at full speed. When it finally happened, we all jumped for joy! Today we have the privilege of watching and photographing them calmly at the feeders, enjoying every detail.
Day 3: Andean Cock-of-the-rock and Cloud Forest Birding
An early start and a surprise on the trail
We left Yotoco Lodge at 5:00 am and reached Doña Dora's place by 5:40. From there we started the walk down to the Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek, nice and slow. The trail is a bit steep but not hard, so I like to take it easy and enjoy it.
On the way down we bumped into a spectacular Plain-backed Antpitta strolling along the trail. Luckily, it was in no hurry and gave us fantastic looks. Not a bad way to say good morning!
Plain-backed Antpitta
The lek: a dance from another world
At the lek we found three males in full morning show mode. They hopped from branch to branch, opened their wings, snapped their bills and called with that otherworldly voice. Honestly, it's one of the wildest performances in the bird world, and Alex and Alina had front-row seats.
Andean Cock-of-the Rock
Breakfast with Chocó stars
Then we climbed back up to Doña Dora's house, where she gave us her warm welcome, as always. We had breakfast in the backyard, watching the banana and papaya feeders. And what a parade of Chocó bioregion icons it was:
• The colorful Toucan Barbet
• Glistening-green, Rufous-throated, Silver-throated and Ochre-breasted Tanagers
• Lemon-rumped and Black-chinned Mountain Tanagers
• Chocó and Black-headed Brushfinches
Toucan Barbet
Next we went up to the third floor to the hummingbird feeders, home to the wonderful hummers of the Pacific slope. We enjoyed Green Thorntail, Brown Inca, White-whiskered Hermit, Velvet-purple Coronet, Rufous-gaped Hillstar and Purple-bibbed Whitetip, among others.
Cheese empanadas and a sleeping beauty
On the way out we stopped at Doña Dora's son's place to buy some of her excellent cheese empanadas for the road. Trust me, they're a must. Right there, on a rocky cliff, we found a female Lyre-tailed Nightjar fast asleep. Quietly, of course: no one wants to wake up a sleeping beauty.
Into the forest at Bosque de Niebla
In the afternoon we went back to Km 18 to bird at Finca Bosque de Niebla. After two days of feeders and forest edges, it was time for the next level: birding inside the forest. Time to put my lovely beginners to the test!
I told them about the ovenbird family, the furnariids: woodcreepers, xenops, foliage-gleaners, treehunters and friends. These birds are mostly brown, sneaky and hard to see. My goal was to spark more than the natural love for bright, colorful birds. I wanted them to enjoy the quieter birds too, the ones with fascinating behavior that challenge your skills.
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Beginner tip: forest birding is the next step after feeders. Go slow, stay quiet and look for movement before color. Your guide will help you find the bird, then it's binoculars up, eyes on the bird. |
The forest rewarded us. We had great looks at Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Variegated Bristle-Tyrant and Red-headed Barbet, and we heard a Green-and-black Fruiteater calling.
Red-headed Barbet
Our tally for the day: 48 species in the morning and 28 in the afternoon.
We returned to Yotoco Lodge for our last night at this spectacular birding basecamp in Colombia's Western Andes. Definitely the best birding lodge near Cali, if I may say so myself!
Day 4: Wetland Birding at Laguna de Sonso and the Coffee Region
A dry-forest wetland full of surprises
We left Yotoco Lodge early and reached Laguna de Sonso at 6:30 am, where our excellent local guide Jhonatan was waiting for us. The lagoon and its tropical dry forest treated us beautifully from the start. Picture magnificent Swamp Coral Trees, their branches dripping with Spanish moss, and birds everywhere.
The highlights were a birder's dream:
• Horned Screamer, an evolutionary oddball with a "horn" on its forehead
• Little and Dwarf Cuckoos, both scarce
Little Cuckoo
• Lesser Nighthawk and Common Potoo
• The shy Gray-cowled Wood-Rail
• Common and Purple Gallinules
• Spotted and Solitary Sandpipers and Pied-billed Grebe
• Roseate Spoonbill, scarce in this area
• The rare and elusive Pinnated Bittern
Horned Screamer
We finished the morning with 73 species. Our beginners were officially not beginners anymore!
Welcome to coffee country
After lunch in Buga, we drove to Filandia, a classic town in Colombia's coffee region. Its houses have wooden balconies painted in bold, joyful color combinations. It feels like walking through a postcard.
We strolled around the main square and enjoyed an amazing coffee with a typical Colombian dessert. I told Alex and Alina about Paisa coffee culture: the traditional outfit with poncho, hat and carriel (a leather shoulder bag). I also told them about the arrieros, the muleteers who grew and carried coffee and other goods on mule-back along the steep trails of the Colombian Andes.
That night we stayed at the beautiful and comfy Hotel Muchosur.
Day 5: A Colombian Coffee Tour (and Birding Before Breakfast)
Pre-breakfast birding at Muchosur
We were up at 6:30 am to bird the garden and trail at Hotel Muchosur. In just one hour before breakfast we found 21 species. The stars were the gorgeous Moustached Puffbird, Pale-vented Pigeon, Southern Lapwing, Andean Motmot, the shy and secretive Slaty Spinetail, Spectacled Parrotlet and the eye-catching Vermilion Flycatcher.
Spectacled Parrotlet
From bean to cup at Finca Laureles
Next we headed to the Laureles coffee farm. Despite all my confirming and re-confirming, nobody was expecting us. Welcome to Colombia! Luckily, after a couple of phone calls, our guide showed up in less than 10 minutes.
And it was worth it. He gave us a friendly, detailed tour about coffee varieties and what it takes to make a truly excellent cup. We followed the whole journey: picking the cherries by hand, pulping, fermenting, washing, drying and, finally, the different roast levels. A really fun and tasty tour, and a great break for any beginner. Mixing birding with culture is one of the best ways to enjoy a first birding trip in Colombia.
In the afternoon we drove to Manizales and checked into the wonderful Hacienda El Bosque, the best lodge in the Manizales area.
Day 6: Páramo Birding in Los Nevados National Park
Antpitta for breakfast
We left early for Hotel Termales del Ruiz. After breakfast we visited their feeding station, where the Tawny Antpitta and the Crowned Chat-Tyrant put on a great show.
Tawny Antpitta
The páramo: the water factory of the Andes
Then we went up to the national park visitor center to look for the most important hummingbird of the whole trip: the endemic and vulnerable Buffy Helmetcrest.
Endemic Buffy Helmetcrest
As we climbed into the páramo, I told my Romanian friends why this place matters so much. Páramos are the water factories of the Andes. This is where many of Colombia's great rivers are born, and the plants here are built for one job: catching water.
The iconic frailejones are the best example. Their fuzzy, silvery leaves trap moisture from mist and clouds, and the water drips slowly into the ground. Their old, dead leaves stay on the trunk like a warm coat, protecting the plant from freezing nights. Below them, mosses and cushion plants soak up water like giant sponges and release it little by little into streams. Add the lovely yellow árnica flowers, and you have a landscape that looks like another planet.
Sadly, this fragile ecosystem, home of the Buffy Helmetcrest, is under serious threat from cattle ranching and potato farming. That's why seeing this bird is a real privilege.
It was very windy, which always makes things tricky up there, so it took us a while. But in the end we had excellent looks at a male Buffy Helmetcrest. Mission accomplished!
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch
The páramo also gave us Andean Tit-Spinetail, Tyrian Metaltail, Plumbeous Sierra Finch, a magnificent Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and a Short-tailed Hawk.
Lunch with hummingbirds
Back at Hotel Termales del Ruiz we had lunch and enjoyed the feeders. Highlights included:
• Purple-backed and Rainbow-bearded Thornbills
• Viridian Metaltail, Shining Sunbeam and Great Sapphirewing
• Brown-bellied Swallow and Pale-naped Brushfinch
• Masked, Black and Glossy Flowerpiercers
• Lachrymose and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill
Two bonus stops
On the way back to Hacienda El Bosque we made two great stops. At Laguna Negra we found Andean Duck and a family of Andean Teal. Then, in the San Carlos forest, a small mixed flock gave us two real gems: Golden-crowned Tanager and the rare, scarce Black-backed Bush Tanager.
Day 7: Antpittas and Hummingbirds at Hacienda El Bosque
This whole day was about enjoying the amazing birds of the high-Andean forest patches of the Central Andes at Hacienda El Bosque. The team there does a fantastic job with their birds.
Antpitta heaven
We started with the Crescent-faced Antpitta, a favorite for many birders, and I totally get why. We also saw Slate-crowned Antpitta and Equatorial Antpitta. Three antpittas before lunch: not bad for two people who didn't own binoculars a few months ago!
Crescent-faced Antpitta
Beauties of the high forest
The forest kept delivering. We enjoyed Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Hooded Mountain Tanager, Blue-capped Tanager, Páramo Seedeater, Northern Slaty Brushfinch, Grass Wren, Red-crested Cotinga and White-browed Spinetail.
The sky had its own show too: a spectacular Black-and-chestnut Eagle, a juvenile White-tailed Hawk and a flock of Barred Parakeets.
White-tailed Hawk
The hummingbird finale
The hummingbirds were simply spectacular. We saw Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Tourmaline Sunangel and Collared Inca. And the star of the show: the Sword-billed Hummingbird, the only bird in the world with a bill longer than its body. Jaws dropped, as expected.
Sword-billed Hummingbird
Day 8: Río Blanco, Colombia's Classic Antpitta Reserve
Home sweet home with the Aranzazu family
This is one of my favorite places. At Río Blanco we're welcomed by the Aranzazu family: Carlos Mario, Mateo, Andrea and Doña Claudia. They have been key players in Colombian bird tourism for more than a decade, and every time I arrive I feel right at home.
Río Blanco is one of the most famous and traditional birding sites in Colombia. It's where antpitta feeding began in the country, so it's a true pilgrimage spot for birders.
One of the best days of the tour
With the help of Carlos Mario and Mateo, we had one of the best days of the whole trip. The highlights:
• Masked Saltator, rare, scarce and always on birders' wish lists
• Stygian Owl and Masked Trogon
• The scarce Rusty-faced Parrot
• The spectacular Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
Masked Saltator
• Yellow-vented, Golden-olive and Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers
• Streaked Tuftedcheek, Pearled Treerunner and Mountain Cacique
• Black-capped, Black-eared and Superciliaried Hemispingus
• White-throated Daggerbill
White-throated Daggerbill
We logged 56 species in a single morning. After lunch we started our journey back to Valle del Cauca, and spent our last night in Buga at the lovely Hotel El Diamante.
Day 9: A Spectacled Owl Farewell
One last birding morning
We saved three hours on our final morning for one last round of birding. With the help of local guide Juan Esteban, we enjoyed Black-throated Mango, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Red-crowned and Spot-breasted Woodpeckers, Bar-crested Antshrike, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Guira Tanager, Greenish Elaenia and Cinereous Becard.
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Saving the best for last
Juan Esteban and I had a little plan: the last bird of the trip had to be a memorable one. And it was. We closed the tour with a magnificent Spectacled Owl, a powerful and majestic bird staring right back at us. What a way to say goodbye!
Then we drove to the airport, where we said a very warm farewell after a tour we all truly enjoyed.
How Many Birds Can a Beginner See in Colombia? Our Final Numbers
Not bad at all for a first trip to Colombia, to the Neotropics and to birding in general:
• 281 species in total
• About 31 new species per day on average
• 40 hummingbird species
• 29 tanager species
• 8 woodpecker species
• 6 Colombian endemics
But the best result isn't a number. This tour lit a real fire for this wonderful, healthy hobby. Alex and Alina flew back to the UK eager to learn more and dive deeper into the world of birding.
Alina, Alex: thank you for your enthusiasm, your laughs and your sharp eyes. It was an honor to be part of your honeymoon. Colombia is waiting for you whenever you're ready for round two!
Birding Tour for Beginners: Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need birding experience to join a birding tour in Colombia?
Not at all. Alex and Alina had only been interested in birds for a few months. I adapt every tour to the group, whether you're an experienced lister, a photographer or a complete beginner.
Do I need my own binoculars?
They help, but you don't need to be an expert with them. Alex and Alina didn't even own binoculars before this trip. On day one we set them up together and practiced at the feeders. Ask me about binocular options when you plan your trip.
Is Colombia good for beginner birdwatchers?
Yes. Colombia has the most bird species in the world, and many lodges and reserves have feeders and hummingbird stations. That means close, easy views of colorful birds, which is perfect when you're just starting out.
Can a non-birding partner enjoy the trip?
Absolutely. This itinerary mixed birding with a coffee farm tour, colorful coffee-region towns, great food and comfortable lodges. It works for couples, honeymoons and anyone curious about nature.
How many birds can I see on my first birding trip to Colombia?
On this 9-day tour, two beginners saw 281 species, including 40 hummingbirds and 6 Colombian endemics. Every trip is different, but the numbers can be amazing.
Check Alina's review at Google:
"We chose to do a 9-day birding tour in the Cauca Valley with Piculet Birding during our honeymoon in Colombia, and it turned out to be the main highlight. From the start, Julio, our lead guide, was fantastic. We planned the trip quickly over a couple of weeks and then had a get-to-know-each-other call before arriving in Colombia, which gave us the chance to discuss any further questions we had. Julio was always available, quick to reply and happy to help.
He refined the itinerary based on our feedback and used his extensive local experience to create a trip that suited us perfectly. It struck a great balance between comfort, variety and adventure, with beautiful scenery, attractive accommodation and an incredible diversity of birds. The tour was designed with beginner birders in mind, so there were plenty of opportunities to see colourful and readily visible species at feeder stations, as well as birding in cloud forests, woodlands, high-altitude areas and around lagoons. We ended up seeing close to 300 species, which was amazing given that we were complete beginners!
Julio is incredibly knowledgeable, patient, kind and organised. He made birding very accessible to us and was excellent at pointing us towards where the birds were located, even the very quick and tricky ones. His English is excellent, and he was always attentive to how we were doing, adjusting the pace when we needed a break or when we wanted to spend more time in a particular place. He also remained flexible throughout the trip, adapting the schedule and locations when circumstances or our requests changed.
Everything was very well organised. Each evening Julio went through the plan for the next day with us, and he made sure that breakfast, snacks, water, equipment, the car and local guides were all ready. The car was comfortable and air-conditioned, binoculars were provided, and Julio also had a scope which he set up for us to get closer views and take photos through our phones.
One of the things we particularly appreciated was the eBird list that Julio created and updated for us every day. It was a great way to keep track of everything we were seeing, and he also prepared a complete report for us at the end of the tour. He kindly took photos of the birds with his professional camera too, which was especially meaningful for us as we’re now able to include them in our honeymoon keepsake book.
Saffron-crowned Tanager
There was also a great variety beyond simply watching birds. We particularly enjoyed the coffee experience in Filandia, where we picked, roasted and ground coffee before brewing and enjoying it ourselves. The meals were organised in advance by Julio and were filling, nutritious and varied, with plenty of local food and choices where possible.
The birding itself was wonderfully varied, sometimes watching birds at feeders, sometimes following them through the forest, spotting them around a lagoon, or even having humming birds feed from our hands. For two people who aren't regular birders, it was an incredibly enjoyable and accessible experience.
A big shout-out as well to the local guides who joined us along the way: Jonathan at Sonso Lagoon, Mateo at Los Nevados National Park, Rio Blanco and Black Lagoon, and Juan at El Diamante. They were all fantastic.
Golden Tanagers
We came away from the tour with an enormous appreciation for Colombia’s birdlife, a huge list of new species, lots of great photos and, most importantly, some very special honeymoon memories. Piculet Birding and Julio made the whole experience feel personal, flexible and effortless. We would absolutely recommend them to anyone and especially fellow beginners looking to discover Colombia’s extraordinary birdlife."
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Ready for your first birding adventure? Every Piculet Birding tour is planned around you: your pace, your interests and your experience level. Message me on WhatsApp (Whatsapp link) and let's design your beginner-friendly birding tour in Colombia together. |