Tour organizer & Logistics: Julio Delgado
Tour Leader: Gilberto Collazos
Participants (Canada): Ben Taylor, Drew Monkman , Cathy Douglas, Linda Sunderland, Chris Reisley, Erica Nol, Jason Westlake (USA), Dorlisa Robinson.
NOV 1 & 2
Our participants opted to arrive a day early, investing in extra time to rest after their long journey and acclimate before the tour began. Julio successfully secured accommodations at the newly built cabins at Finca La Florida, where they could unwind and start enjoying the cloud forest birds before the official tour kickoff. I joined the group on the evening of November 2nd.
The lush gardens and well-maintained feeders provided exceptional opportunities for both observation and photography. Our hosts, Javier and his wife Su, ensured our comfort and enriched our experience with their warm hospitality.
We were treated to spectacular views and photo opportunities of birds, including the stunning endemic Multicolored Tanager. In the evening, we held our tour briefing, discussing our upcoming Colombian adventure, getting to know each other, and sharing expectations for the journey ahead.
Finca la Florida
NOV 3
We kicked off with a bang! Participants captured stunning shots of the area's specialties: the endemic Multicolored Tanager, endemic Chestnut Woodquail, endemic Colombian Chachalaca and Little Tinamou. At the feeders, we also enjoyed a spectacular cloud forest bird show featuring Saffron-crowned Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Golden Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Red-headed Barbet and many more.
Multicolored Tanager
Early on, we faced an unexpected challenge: one of our fellow birders experienced a camera malfunction, leading to understandable distress. In the spirit of camaraderie, Gilberto (our Tour leader) decided to share his camera with her. This act of kindness restored her spirits, and the group's morale soared, reinforcing the supportive environment among us.
Then we went Birding on the km 18-Dapa road. We were able to see birds that don't visit the feeders, such as the Metallic-Green Tanager, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Streaked Xenops, and Beryl-spangled Tanager, among others.
Birding on the km 18-Dapa road
Metallic-Green Tanager
In the evening, we completed the day's Check List at Hotel El Campanario in El Queremal, recording the birds seen at km 18 and La Florida. Among the things we noticed while making the list, was the high amount of hummingbird species seen, 15 in total in this first day! Including notable sightings of Long-tailed Sylph, White-booted Racquet-tail, Greenish Puffleg, Green Hermit, and Fawn-breasted Brilliant.
Hotel El Campanario is strategically located at the beginning of the Anchicayá River canyon, with wide room availability. From this location, we start early to explore the old road to Buenaventura.
NOV 4
Departing from the hotel at 5:15 am, we aimed to witness the Andean Cock-of-the-rock at Avistamiento de Aves Doña Dora. However, heavy rains the previous night had caused landslides, obstructing our route. Undeterred, we cleared fallen branches and, when faced with larger obstacles, proceeded on foot.
Our determination paid off as we arrived at Doña Dora's reserve. After a 25-minute descent to the lek, the brilliant use of playback and some patience rewarded us with a sighting of a solitary, but gorgeous, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, a vibrant highlight of the day.
The ascent back to Doña Dora's was equally rewarding. Along the trail, a strategically placed moth trap attracted a variety of species, including the Squirrel Cuckoo, Ochre-breasted Tanager, Yellow-throated Chlorospingus, and migratory birds like the Canada Warbler and Summer Tanager.
Ochre-breasted Tanager
Squirrel Cuckoo
Toucan Barbet
Other notable sightings included the Glistening-green Tanager, Spot-crowned Barbet, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Black-headed Brushfinch, and Silver-throated Tanager. The hummingbird feeders attracted species such as the Velvet-purple Coronet, Rufous-gaped Hillstar, Green Thorntail, and Purple-bibbed Whitetip, adding to the day's impressive list.
Glistening-green Tanager
Spot-crowned Barbet,In the afternoon, we returned to Hotel El Campanario for check-out and embarked on our journey to Buenaventura, Colombia's principal port on the Pacific Ocean. Our accommodations at the four-star Hotel Cosmos provided a comfortable retreat, allowing us to rest and prepare for the adventures to come.
NOV 5
We departed for San Cipriano at 5:15 am, arriving at the village of Córdoba where our unique transport awaited: the "brujitas." These are small wooden carts mounted on ball bearings and powered by a motorcycle, traveling along the old railway tracks—a truly distinctive experience.
The journey to the reserve took approximately 20 minutes. Upon arrival, we were greeted by our skilled and friendly local guide, Never (That's his name, seriously, I'm not kidding, 😂).
In the rich biogeographical Chocó region, we observed a variety of remarkable bird species, including: Choco Toucan, Yellow-throated Toucan, Collared Aracari,
Broad-billed Motmot, Rufous Motmot, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Crested Owl, Stub-tailed Antbird, Velvety Manakin, Pacific Antwren, Pacific Flatbill, Baudo Guan and
Rufous Mourner.
Pacific Flatbill
Additionally, some of us enjoyed a refreshing swim in the "Charco del Amor" (Pool of Love), where we also had the chance to observe the enchanting glass frogs native to the area. We also savored traditional Pacific Colombian cuisine prepared by Mrs. Adriana, featuring river shrimp in coconut sauce, "alguacil" (a sort of fish, stew, and fried red snapper—a delightful culinary experience.
After our enriching time in San Cipriano, we traveled to La Huerta Hotel in Darién, near Lake Calima in Valle del Cauca. We enjoyed dinner at this charming location, known for its commitment to environmental care and farm-to-table cuisine.
NOV 6
Laguna de Sonso, is a habitat that hosts a rich biodiversity of aquatic and terrestrial birds, as well as various mammals, reptiles, and amphibians. Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by local guides Michael and his partner.
Julio joined us to provide a scope and an additional camera for Gilberto. The scope arrived at an opportune moment, allowing us to observe the Horned Screamer.
Endemic Grayish Piculet
During our visit, we observed several notable species, including:endemic Grayish Piculet Oriol Blackbird, Cocoy Heron, Great Egret, Black-crowned Night-Heron,
Little Cuckoo, Spectacled Parrotlet, Lineated Woodpecker, Common Potoo,
Greater Ani, Yellow Oriole, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck,
Cinnamon Teal, Least Grebe, Pied-billed Grebe, Lesser Nighthawk, Snail Kite
Additionally, we spotted several migratory species, such as: Yellow Warbler,
Blackburnian Warbler, Streaked Flycatcher, Common Nighthawk and Prothonotary Warbler.
Prothonotary Warbler
Bar-crested Antshrike (Female)
After an enjoyable birdwatching session, we savored a delicious "Sancocho valluno"—a traditional chicken soup with plantain, yuca, onion, and cilantro. Following lunch, we embarked on another brief excursion, during which we had excellent views of the Bar-crested Antshrike. Subsequently, we departed for Mistrató, in the department of Risaralda. We were welcomed by Cristian Bueno, the owner of Sutú Reserve. He lives there with his mother and aunt, investing in nature tourism and working to overcome the difficult memories that violence left on his family in the past.
Reserva Sutú
NOV 7
In five years, Cristian has built a cozy house and set up hummingbird and tanager feeders in his backyard. Here, you can easily observe the beautiful and endemic Black-and-gold Tanager (Bangsia melanochlamys), along with other tanagers native to the Western Andes.
Endemic Black-and-gold Tanager
This is an excellent spot for observing and photographing several hummingbirds that aren't as common elsewhere, such as the Brown Inca and the Violet-tailed Sylph.
Violet-tailed Sylph
We also observed Velvet Purple Coronet, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Green-crowned Brilliant, Green Thorntail, Purple-throated Woodstar, Empress Brilliant, and Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager.
Velvet Purple Coronet
While birding along the road, we had a wonderful encounter - a Semicollared Hawk appeared before us, perched for several minutes. We also spotted the beautiful Purplish-mantled Tanager and various migratory species: Blackburnian Warbler, Black-and-white Warbler, Canada Warbler, and Golden-winged Warbler.
Semicollared Hawk
NOV 8
On this day, in addition to the species we had seen the previous day, we were able to observe the endemic Crested Ant-Tanager and the lovely Flame-faced Tanager, among others. We also spotted Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Variegated Bristle-tyrant, and other tanagers.
Christian Bueno and BenTaylor
Rufous-throated Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
NOV 9
This last morning at Sutú Rerserve, we enjoyed the wonderful cloud forest landscape, observing the Moustached Puffbird and the rare and beautiful Indigo Flowerpiercer, along with the tanagers that always grace this majestic forest: Saffron-crowned Tanager, Metallic-green Tanager, and Purplish-mantled Tanager.
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
We left Mistrató in the evening and arrived at Hotel Villa Juana in Cerritos, a cozy place strategically located for the next day's birding at Kaukitá Reserve.
NOV 10
At Kaukitá, we were accompanied by excellent local guide David Monroy and his wife Diana López.The reserve is located as an extension of a luxurious country estate. We were treated to an unforgettable welcome spectacle by Chestnut-fronted Macaws.
Chestnut-fronted Macaws
As we continued our walk, we found the uncommon Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch and the equally elusive Grassland Sparrow, delighting in their songs as we observed them.
Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch
Grassland Sparrow
The Fork-tailed Flycatcher was a frequent visitor, and we observed various waterbirds at a lake on the property. We also spotted different Seedeater species, including Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Thick-billed Seed-Finch, and Large-billed Seed-Finch.
Late morning, we headed to the forest reserve where we had excellent close views of the spectacular Guira Tanager and the endemic Apical Flycatcher, which had eluded us at Laguna de Sonso. Additionally, while leaving the estate, we observed a Rufous-breasted Hermit at its nest, a particularly challenging hummingbird to find.
Guira Tanager
Endemic Apical Flycatcher
Rufous-breasted Hermit
At midday, we stopped for lunch at Mall Castilla Plaza before continuing our journey to Hotel Kumanday in the Otún Quimbaya Flora and Fauna Sanctuary, Risaralda. There, the Cardona family provides warm hospitality and delicious meals.
We quickly completed our check-in to search for torrent ducks. Here at the bridge over the Otún River, we were thrilled to observe Torrent Ducks - two juveniles and one adult. These ducks are difficult to spot as they move swiftly in the water, traveling downstream in the morning and upstream in the afternoon. We were indeed fortunate.
MaleTorrent Duck
NOV 11
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