Tour organizer & Logistics: Julio Delgado
Tour Leader: Gilberto Collazos
Participants (Canada): Ben Taylor, Drew Monkman , Cathy Douglas, Linda Sunderland, Chris Reisley, Erica Nol, Jason Westlake (USA), Dorlisa Robinson.
NOV 1 & 2
Our participants opted to arrive a day early, investing in extra time to rest after their long journey and acclimate before the tour began. Julio successfully secured accommodations at the newly built cabins at Finca La Florida, where they could unwind and start enjoying the cloud forest birds before the official tour kickoff. I joined the group on the evening of November 2nd.
The lush gardens and well-maintained feeders provided exceptional opportunities for both observation and photography. Our hosts, Javier and his wife Su, ensured our comfort and enriched our experience with their warm hospitality.
We were treated to spectacular views and photo opportunities of birds, including the stunning endemic Multicolored Tanager. In the evening, we held our tour briefing, discussing our upcoming Colombian adventure, getting to know each other, and sharing expectations for the journey ahead.
NOV 3
We kicked off with a bang! Participants captured stunning shots of the area's specialties: the endemic Multicolored Tanager, endemic Chestnut Woodquail, endemic Colombian Chachalaca and Little Tinamou. At the feeders, we also enjoyed a spectacular cloud forest bird show featuring Saffron-crowned Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Golden Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Red-headed Barbet and many more.
Multicolored Tanager
Early on, we faced an unexpected challenge: one of our fellow birders experienced a camera malfunction, leading to understandable distress. In the spirit of camaraderie, Gilberto (our Tour leader) decided to share his camera with her. This act of kindness restored her spirits, and the group's morale soared, reinforcing the supportive environment among us.
Then we went Birding on the km 18-Dapa road. We were able to see birds that don't visit the feeders, such as the Metallic-Green Tanager, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Streaked Xenops, and Beryl-spangled Tanager, among others.
Metallic-Green Tanager
In the evening, we completed the day's Check List at Hotel El Campanario in El Queremal, recording the birds seen at km 18 and La Florida. Among the things we noticed while making the list, was the high amount of hummingbird species seen, 15 in total in this first day! Including notable sightings of Long-tailed Sylph, White-booted Racquet-tail, Greenish Puffleg, Green Hermit, and Fawn-breasted Brilliant.
Hotel El Campanario is strategically located at the beginning of the Anchicayá River canyon, with wide room availability. From this location, we start early to explore the old road to Buenaventura.
NOV 4
Departing from the hotel at 5:15 am, we aimed to witness the Andean Cock-of-the-rock at Avistamiento de Aves Doña Dora. However, heavy rains the previous night had caused landslides, obstructing our route. Undeterred, we cleared fallen branches and, when faced with larger obstacles, proceeded on foot.
Our determination paid off as we arrived at Doña Dora's reserve. After a 25-minute descent to the lek, the brilliant use of playback and some patience rewarded us with a sighting of a solitary, but gorgeous, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, a vibrant highlight of the day.
The ascent back to Doña Dora's was equally rewarding. Along the trail, a strategically placed moth trap attracted a variety of species, including the Squirrel Cuckoo, Ochre-breasted Tanager, Yellow-throated Chlorospingus, and migratory birds like the Canada Warbler and Summer Tanager.
Ochre-breasted Tanager
Squirrel Cuckoo
Toucan Barbet
Other notable sightings included the Glistening-green Tanager, Spot-crowned Barbet, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Black-headed Brushfinch, and Silver-throated Tanager. The hummingbird feeders attracted species such as the Velvet-purple Coronet, Rufous-gaped Hillstar, Green Thorntail, and Purple-bibbed Whitetip, adding to the day's impressive list.
Glistening-green Tanager
Spot-crowned BarbetIn the afternoon, we returned to Hotel El Campanario for check-out and embarked on our journey to Buenaventura, Colombia's principal port on the Pacific Ocean. Our accommodations at the four-star Hotel Cosmos provided a comfortable retreat, allowing us to rest and prepare for the adventures to come.
NOV 5
We departed for San Cipriano at 5:15 am, arriving at the village of Córdoba where our unique transport awaited: the "brujitas." These are small wooden carts mounted on ball bearings and powered by a motorcycle, traveling along the old railway tracks—a truly distinctive experience.
The journey to the reserve took approximately 20 minutes. Upon arrival, we were greeted by our skilled and friendly local guide, Never (That's his name, seriously, I'm not kidding, 😂).
In the rich biogeographical Chocó region, we observed a variety of remarkable bird species, including: Choco Toucan, Yellow-throated Toucan, Collared Aracari,
Broad-billed Motmot, Rufous Motmot, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Crested Owl, Stub-tailed Antbird, Velvety Manakin, Pacific Antwren, Pacific Flatbill, Baudo Guan and
Rufous Mourner.
Pacific Flatbill
Additionally, some of us enjoyed a refreshing swim in the "Charco del Amor" (Pool of Love), where we also had the chance to observe the enchanting glass frogs native to the area. We also savored traditional Pacific Colombian cuisine prepared by Mrs. Adriana, featuring river shrimp in coconut sauce, "alguacil" (a sort of fish, stew, and fried red snapper—a delightful culinary experience.
After our enriching time in San Cipriano, we traveled to La Huerta Hotel in Darién, near Lake Calima in Valle del Cauca. We enjoyed dinner at this charming location, known for its commitment to environmental care and farm-to-table cuisine.
NOV 6
Laguna de Sonso, is a habitat that hosts a rich biodiversity of aquatic and terrestrial birds, as well as various mammals, reptiles, and amphibians. Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by local guides Michael and his partner.
Julio joined us to provide a scope and an additional camera for Gilberto. The scope arrived at an opportune moment, allowing us to observe the Horned Screamer.
Endemic Grayish Piculet
During our visit, we observed several notable species, including:endemic Grayish Piculet Oriol Blackbird, Cocoy Heron, Great Egret, Black-crowned Night-Heron,
Little Cuckoo, Spectacled Parrotlet, Lineated Woodpecker, Common Potoo,
Greater Ani, Yellow Oriole, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck,
Cinnamon Teal, Least Grebe, Pied-billed Grebe, Lesser Nighthawk, Snail Kite
Additionally, we spotted several migratory species, such as: Yellow Warbler,
Blackburnian Warbler, Streaked Flycatcher, Common Nighthawk and Prothonotary Warbler.
Prothonotary Warbler
Bar-crested Antshrike (Female)
After an enjoyable birdwatching session, we savored a delicious "Sancocho valluno"—a traditional chicken soup with plantain, yuca, onion, and cilantro. Following lunch, we embarked on another brief excursion, during which we had excellent views of the Bar-crested Antshrike. Subsequently, we departed for Mistrató, in the department of Risaralda. We were welcomed by Cristian Bueno, the owner of Sutú Reserve. He lives there with his mother and aunt, investing in nature tourism and working to overcome the difficult memories that violence left on his family in the past.
Reserva Sutú
NOV 7
In five years, Cristian has built a cozy house and set up hummingbird and tanager feeders in his backyard. Here, you can easily observe the beautiful and endemic Black-and-gold Tanager (Bangsia melanochlamys), along with other tanagers native to the Western Andes.
Endemic Black-and-gold Tanager
This is an excellent spot for observing and photographing several hummingbirds that aren't as common elsewhere, such as the Brown Inca and the Violet-tailed Sylph.
Violet-tailed Sylph
We also observed Velvet Purple Coronet, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Green-crowned Brilliant, Green Thorntail, Purple-throated Woodstar, Empress Brilliant, and Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager.
Velvet Purple Coronet
While birding along the road, we had a wonderful encounter - a Semicollared Hawk appeared before us, perched for several minutes. We also spotted the beautiful Purplish-mantled Tanager and various migratory species: Blackburnian Warbler, Black-and-white Warbler, Canada Warbler, and Golden-winged Warbler.
Semicollared Hawk
NOV 8
On this day, in addition to the species we had seen the previous day, we were able to observe the endemic Crested Ant-Tanager and the lovely Flame-faced Tanager, among others. We also spotted Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Variegated Bristle-tyrant, and other tanagers.
Christian Bueno and BenTaylor
Rufous-throated Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
NOV 9
This last morning at Sutú Rerserve, we enjoyed the wonderful cloud forest landscape, observing the Moustached Puffbird and the rare and beautiful Indigo Flowerpiercer, along with the tanagers that always grace this majestic forest: Saffron-crowned Tanager, Metallic-green Tanager, and Purplish-mantled Tanager.
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
We left Mistrató in the evening and arrived at Hotel Villa Juana in Cerritos, a cozy place strategically located for the next day's birding at Kaukitá Reserve.
NOV 10
At Kaukitá, we were accompanied by excellent local guide David Monroy and his wife Diana López.The reserve is located as an extension of a luxurious country estate. We were treated to an unforgettable welcome spectacle by Chestnut-fronted Macaws.
Chestnut-fronted Macaws
As we continued our walk, we found the uncommon Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch and the equally elusive Grassland Sparrow, delighting in their songs as we observed them.
Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch
Grassland Sparrow
The Fork-tailed Flycatcher was a frequent visitor, and we observed various waterbirds at a lake on the property. We also spotted different Seedeater species, including Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Thick-billed Seed-Finch, and Large-billed Seed-Finch.
Late morning, we headed to the forest reserve where we had excellent close views of the spectacular Guira Tanager and the endemic Apical Flycatcher, which had eluded us at Laguna de Sonso. Additionally, while leaving the estate, we observed a Rufous-breasted Hermit at its nest, a particularly challenging hummingbird to find.
Guira Tanager
Endemic Apical Flycatcher
Rufous-breasted Hermit
At midday, we stopped for lunch at Mall Castilla Plaza before continuing our journey to Hotel Kumanday in the Otún Quimbaya Flora and Fauna Sanctuary, Risaralda. There, the Cardona family provides warm hospitality and delicious meals.
We quickly completed our check-in to search for torrent ducks. Here at the bridge over the Otún River, we were thrilled to observe Torrent Ducks - two juveniles and one adult. These ducks are difficult to spot as they move swiftly in the water, traveling downstream in the morning and upstream in the afternoon. We were indeed fortunate.
Male Torrent Duck
NOV 11
We set out very early in the morning in three 4x4 trucks heading to El Cedral, approximately an hour away from Hotel Kumanday. There, we were fortunate to observe a pair of White-capped Dippers up close, along with several flycatcher species including Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, Marble-faced Bristle-tyrant, and Variegated Bristle-tyrant.
As we continued our descent along the road, we encountered the rare and extraordinarily beautiful Red-ruffed Fruitcrows. Here we were also able to spot the Multicolored Tanager in the forest, along with many other stunning birds such as Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Metallic-green Tanager, Fawn-breasted Tanager, and Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, among many other magnificent species.
Endemic Cauca Guan
We were invited to visit the park rangers' refuge, which is currently being renovated. There we had the privilege of seeing the magnificent endemic Cauca Guan.
After enjoying a delicious lunch prepared at the Hotel Kumanday restaurant, we embarked on our journey to Manizales, the capital of Caldas province and one of the most important coffee-growing cities in Colombia. We enjoyed the scenic landscapes with coffee plantations along the way. We stayed at the beautiful and comfortable Hotel Recinto del Pensamiento, where we were greeted with an excellent reception and efficient check-in process by the hotel staff. After enjoying dinner at the hotel, we completed our checklist for the day and retired for a good night's rest.
NOV 12
At 5:30 AM, we departed from the hotel toward the Rio Blanco Reserve, owned by Aguas de Manizales. Carlos Mario Aranzazu and his family warmly welcomed us upon arrival. After enjoying a quick coffee, we set out to find the Bicolored Antpitta. Though its song seemed distant at first, making an encounter seem unlikely, it responded to Carlos Mario's whistled call and treated us to a wonderful display.
near endemic Bicolored Antpitta
Following this exciting start, we returned for a delicious breakfast prepared by Claudia. Once satisfied, we boarded our minibus and headed to a higher elevation to observe the Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. This beautiful specimen was attentively waiting for Carlos Mario's arrival and provided us with excellent photo opportunities.
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
We continued even higher to another hide, where we observed the small and beautiful Slate-crowned Antpitta, another of Carlos Mario's favorites. This bird did not disappoint, providing us with a tremendous spectacle and wonderful photographic opportunities.
Slate-crowned Antpitta
The morning at Rio Blanco continued with observation of the mixed flocks that are common in the area. We were able to spot the Blue-and-black Tanager, Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, Superciliated Hemispingus, Golden-fronted Redstart, and the endemic Masked Saltator perched solitary atop a distant tree. After observing several other species, we decided to return to the house for lunch and to call in the fourth antpitta of the day, the endemic Brown-banded Antpitta. Once again, luck was on our side and we were able to observe it very well.
Endemic Brown-banded Antpitta
Lunch was excellent, but so were the other birds we were able to observe and photograph afterward: Rusty-faced Parrot, Southern Emerald-Toucanet, Northern Slaty-Brushfinch, Powerful Woodpecker, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Pearled Treerunner, Sharpe's Wren, Capped Conebill, and the beautiful Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager.
After another bird-watching walk, we bid farewell to the Rio Blanco Reserve and began our journey back to the hotel, but not before making a stop at the reserve entrance to observe the White-capped Dipper.
Buff-breasted Tanager
As usual, we returned to the hotel for dinner, reviewed our bird sightings for the day, and then rested in preparation for our journey to El Color De Mis Rêves the following day.
NOV 13
We departed from our hotel very early to arrive at the parking lot across from Termales del Otoño by 5:30 AM. There, we transferred into three 4x4 trucks with special suspension systems necessary to ascend the extremely steep road filled with deep potholes. An early start was essential to catch a glimpse of the Masked Trogon.
After just 10 minutes in the off-road vehicles, we crossed a river and began ascending what can only be described as a genuine rough track—an adventure worthy of a rally race! We arrived at the Glamping site, owned by Andrés Felipe Giraldo, and quickly made our way to the toucan feeders. A pair of Masked Trogons was already waiting, as they regularly visit the area to hunt moths.
Shortly afterward, Gray-browed Brushfinch and Slaty Brushfinch appeared. As the trogons departed, we were treated to the arrival of a Sickle-winged Guan, almost simultaneously with an Andean Guan. What a beautiful spectacle when the Blue-capped Tanager arrived, closely followed by the Black-collared Jay.
To complete our bird list at this location, several Black-billed Mountain Toucans appeared, coming to feast on grapes. Surprisingly, we were also visited by some large blue tanagers with yellow bellies, black hoods, and brilliant red eyes—the beautiful Hooded Mountain Tanagers. Though we were already enjoying coffee and hot chocolate, the chef was calling us, so we decided to head up for breakfast.
Black-collared Jay
After breakfast, we climbed to the Bicolored Antpitta feeder. Though we had seen this species the previous day, it presented itself on a particularly attractive perch. Along the way, we spotted the Agile Tit-Tyrant, Grass Wren, Capped Conebill, Mountain Elaenia, and Golden-fronted Redstart.
To conclude our visit to the Glamping site, we headed to the hummingbird feeders. There, we constantly observed Tourmaline Sunangel, Long-tailed Sylph, Collared Inca, White-bellied Woodstar, Buff-tailed Coronet, and the impressive Sword-billed Hummingbird.
Hooded Mountain Tanager
Soon it was time to enjoy a delicious lunch before departing for Hacienda El Bosque. We arrived at Hacienda El Bosque in the afternoon, a property owned by Don José and his son Juan Martín. The estate spans 1,000 hectares, with 55% covered in forests and the remainder dedicated to dairy cattle pastures, some crops, and fish farming. The bird watching area sits at an elevation of 3,200 meters above sea level.
Tourmaline Sunangel
Not wasting any time, we stopped at the toucan hide to observe birds before checking in. There we were able to see White-throated Quail-Dove, Andean Guan, Great Thrush, and several hummingbird species. We then proceeded to check into our comfortable cabins, always assisted by our excellent minibus driver, Miller (from Solutions Colombia), who was constantly ready to help with tourists' luggage. Later came a delicious dinner in the small restaurant located in the upper section of the bird watching area.
NOV 14
Our day began with breakfast at 6:45 AM, accompanied by coffee and hot chocolate to warm ourselves in what felt like freezer-like temperatures at that early hour.
By 7:30 AM, we were ready to seek out the Equatorial Antpitta (affectionately called "Juli"). She took her time to appear, but eventually did so. While waiting, we were able to observe the White-browed Spinetail and, inevitably, the Gray-browed Brushfinch (nicknamed "Armando") which needed to be deterred with a water pistol to allow Juli to make her appearance.
Our first stop was successful, and we began our return very slowly, as breathing becomes difficult when walking uphill at this high altitude.
We arrived at the second hide with hopes of seeing the Crescent-faced Antpitta. Before its arrival, different species appeared one by one: Slaty Brushfinch, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant, and Mountain Wren.
Finally, the star of the location appeared. "Lunita" (the Crescent-faced Antpitta) treated us to a magnificent display, allowing for excellent photographs.
Crescent-faced Antpitta
We waited for the Barred Fruiteater, which arrived on the branches but didn't approach the feeder. Then it was time to visit the toucan hide. We observed the same bird species as the previous day, and then were surprised by three Gray-breasted Mountain Toucans, accompanied by Hooded Mountain Tanagers.
Gray-breasted Mountain Toucan
All this occurred while we watched various hummingbirds, some new additions to our trip list: Tyrian Metaltail, Black-thighed Puffleg, Tourmaline Sunangel, White-bellied Woodstar, and the majestic Sword-billed Hummingbird.
Sword-billed Hummingbird
We headed to lunch, spent a bit more time birding, and then said our grateful goodbyes before departing for Hotel Termales del Ruiz.
Upon arriving at Hotel Termales del Ruiz, we checked in and quickly made our way to the feeders to continue birding. Here we managed to see some of the birds found in this area: Lacrimose Mountain Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Hooded Mountain Tanager, Pale-naped Brushfinch, and other hummingbirds new to our list. This place is truly wonderful, and we didn't miss the opportunity to take a relaxing bath in the thermal waters before dinner.
NOV 15
Our day's first objective was an early visit to the Nevado Del Ruiz area to observe the Buffy Helmetcrest. The kitchen staff very kindly agreed to have a delicious and hearty breakfast ready for us at 6:30 AM. We departed quickly, admiring the beautiful landscape that revealed the snow-capped peak while also searching for Rufous-fronted Parakeet, which we were unfortunately unable to find.
However, just 100 meters before reaching the park rangers' refuge, the Oxipogon stuebelii (Buffy Helmetcrest) appeared—a female sipping nectar from small purple flowers. She remained there for several minutes until a male arrived and led her away in a matter of seconds. The pair disappeared, and we weren't able to see them again.
Buffy Helmetcrest
Activity was very low in the páramo; not even the common birds were visible. We decided to descend partly on foot and then continued by minibus for about a kilometer in the direction of Murillo, Tolima. This strategy allowed us to see some birds such as Black Flowerpiercer, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Andean Tit-Spinetail, and many Great Thrushes.
Back in the minibus, we headed to Laguna Negra before the fog could obscure our view of the ducks. There, with the help of a telescope, we were able to get excellent views of Andean Duck (3 individuals). We also observed Stout-billed Cinclodes and Plumbeous Sierra-Finch. To complete our visit to the lagoon, three majestic Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles appeared.
We returned to Hotel Termales del Ruiz, spotting flocks of Plain-colored Seedeaters along the way. Upon arriving at the hotel, we were able to see the tanagers from the previous evening again, along with hummingbirds such as Great Sapphirewing, Golden-breasted Puffleg, Shining Sunbeam, and other birds like Glossy Flowerpiercer. We also spotted Golden-crowned Tanager in a mixed flock, together with White-throated Tyrannulet.
We had lunch at the hotel and departed for the city of Buga in Valle del Cauca, where we stayed at Hotel Chrisbán. But I cannot forget that the páramo gave us a farewell gift: an excellent sighting of Red-crested Cotinga, one of the most sought-after target species for birders who come to the Colombian Andes.
Red-crested Cotinga
Dinner was at Burako restaurant, after which we returned to the hotel to rest before an early start the next day to visit Eco-hotel El Diamante.
NOV 16
Today, as usual, we departed early; at 5:15 AM we headed toward La Habana district in the municipality of Buga, Valle Del Cauca. We arrived at Eco-hotel El Diamante, a beautiful place with a long family tradition. The owners, Mauricio and Luis Miguel Cabal, received us very warmly as excellent hosts.
We began by observing aquatic birds in a small lake. There were many herons: Cattle Egret, Snowy Egret, as well as Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Wattled Jacana, Striated Heron, and Bar-faced Ibis. As we observed, we walked toward a pasture to await the arrival of the Crested Bobwhite. It appeared somewhat nervous, perhaps because we were a group of more than 15 photographers, but eventually it perched on a log in response to the call of our local guide, Santiago. After achieving this primary objective, we went to have breakfast at the hacienda's restaurant.
Crested Bobwhite
Our next step was to board the minibus and head toward a tree about 4 km away to search for the endemic Turquoise Dacnis. There we saw many tanagers: Crimson-backed Tanager, Scarlet Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager, Guira Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, White-lined Tanager, and numerous Black-billed Thrushes. Finally, the Dacnis appeared alongside other migratory birds, and we returned to the Eco-hotel.
At the Eco-hotel, all facilities are constructed with wood and bamboo (Guadua), as the hacienda cultivates and exports this bamboo species and also offers workshops on treating and building with it.
After a bit more birding, it was time for lunch. We were joined by Julio Delgado, who came from Cali to meet our group and to take Jason Westlake to the airport. The lunch was excellent and essentially became the group's farewell gathering with our guide and tour operator. We boarded the minibus and traveled directly to Cali to stay at Hotel El Peñón and await the following day's flights to our home cities.
